For trouble-free performance, check waterers before winter's harshest days.

The morning frost that clings to the ground now is just a precursor to the real freezes of winter, when cold weather evokes Murphy's Law and producers' frustration. Frozen waterers cost time and money, but with some preventative maintenance, many problems can be avoided. Spend a little time and money now to avoid bigger expenses and numb fingers later. Here are some guidelines with which to get started.

LP tank heaters
Leaking case suspicions are common when the temperature is just above freezing. The problem is normally not really leaking cases but due to condensation inside the case. When the temperature does not get cold enough to cause the burner to come on, the heat from the pilot light is enough to cause the cold sides of the case to sweat. This can result in a fair amount of water in the bottom of the case. To verify condensation versus leaking, take the unit out of the tank, take the burner assembly out and fill the case with water. If water doesn't leak out it, won't leak in. To help reduce the condensation, remove some of the vent plugs in the metal plate by the burner and turn the temperature up a small amount. This allows the pilot to burn hotter and will reduce the amount of condensation.

As a reminder, the bellows assembly--the long copper tube with the bulb on the end that goes to the outside of the unit--is not available as a separate part. If this part is damaged or goes bad, the complete unitrol assembly must be replaced.

If the pilot will light but goes out after the unit has cycled try replacing the thermocouple. This is a fairly inexpensive part and usually does the trick.

Electric tank heaters
Not too many moving parts on these units; for the most part they either work or they don't. Units have a thermostat to shut it off when not needed. Once they have cycled off, it takes temperatures near freezing to get them to come back on. Remember this if you're trouble shooting the unit at warmer temperatures. Failure to turn on in warmer temperatures won't necessarily mean the unit is bad. Remember, they are designed to keep water from freezing.

If a unit doesn't work there are a few things that should be checked before they are sent back for warranty:

Age: There is a time limit on the warranty. It varies with the unit from 1 to 3 years.

Calcium deposits: If there is a heavy calcium deposit on the heat elements, the unit is not covered under warranty. Calcium deposits insulate the element from the water and cause it to get too hot and burn out. If the water in your area has a high level of calcium in it, clean the units on a regular basis. This will allow the unit to work more efficiently and extend its life.

Damage or repairs to the cord. If the plug has been replaced or there is damage to the cord, the unit is no longer covered under warranty and cannot be returned.

Energy-free waterers
The principle used in energy- free waterers is the same as that used in your Thermos bottle. It is a closed, insulated container that tries to hold the temperature of the water that comes into it. The warmer the water and the more often it is replaced, the better the job it will do.

Here are a few common problems with energy-free waterers:

Water valve freezing. Usually caused by an air leak. Check the seal around the bottom of the unit, the seals in the body of the waterer and the access opening. Units on a gravity system will sometimes have this problem because they refill too slowly, allowing too much cold air into the unit before it can reseal the openings. Changing to a larger orificed valve to speed refill time will help.

Drinker balls freezing to the top of waterer. Some of this is just the nature of the beast, however the problem can be kept to a minimum by having the proper water level in the waterer. Assuming that the unit was installed on a fairly level pad, the water level should be adjusted so that the ball closures just touch the opening. If the water is too high, the ball will fit too tightly and the water that is above it from the cattle drinking can't drain back into the waterer. This causes excessive icing.

Water line freezing. Often caused by an air leak under the unit. Reseal the unit to the pad with caulking or plastic roof cement. A small leak on a windy night can be a real problem. Improper installation can also be the cause. The water line can NOT touch the side of the tube in the ground. Depending on your area, the tube should be 6- to 12-inches in diameter. A tube that is too small will not provide adequate insulation for the incoming line. If the unit is replacing an electric unit with a smaller tube, you should consider using supplemental heat to keep the line from freezing. The small cost to heat the line is better than tearing out the pad to install a larger tube.

Waterer won't shut off. Even though this is not necessarily a cold weather problem, it can happen on a regular basis. If, after checking for a bad seat in the valve, it still won't shut off, the problem may be excessive water pressure. Most pressure valves are designed to handle pressures up to about 50 to 60 psi. Many rural water districts will have pressures well beyond this--especially during the night when demand is low. This problem can be solved by putting a pressure regulator in the line.

If the waterer does freeze. Remember that most energy-free waterers are made of plastic. Use only hot water to thaw. Other heat sources, even heat lamps, can cause damage to the waterer itself. For energy-free waterers the saying "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" is very applicable.

Ben Murray is a product manager for MFA Farm Supply.